Amphibian & Invertebrate Care

Amphibians — frogs, toads, newts and axolotls — are amazing. Many of them actually breathe and drink through their skin, absorbing water and even a little oxygen straight through it. That soft, damp skin is wonderful, but it also means anything on your hands can pass into their body.

Golden rules for handling

• Handle as little as possible. These are watch-me animals, not cuddle-me animals. Every handle is a little bit stressful for them.
• Wet, clean hands only. Rinse your hands in dechlorinated water first so you don't dry out or damage their skin.
• No soap, no hand gel, no lotion or bug spray. Even tiny traces can soak through the skin and make an amphibian very ill.
• Be gentle and low. Support the whole body and stay close to a soft surface.

Because amphibians live in and absorb water, clean water is the most important thing of all. Poor water is one of the biggest reasons amphibians become unwell.

Keeping the water right

• Always dechlorinate. Tap water contains chlorine (and sometimes chloramine) that harms amphibians. Use a proper dechlorinator, or water that has been treated and left to stand.
• Filter and keep it clean. Gentle filtration and regular partial water changes keep waste from building up.
• No sudden temperature changes. A big jump in temperature is a shock to a cold-blooded animal. Change water gradually and match the temperature.
• Axolotls need cool water. Axolotls are cool-water animals — they must not get warm. They do not need a heater and can suffer if the water gets too hot.

Every species comes from a different home in the wild, so we build their enclosure to match. Get the humidity and temperature right and you're halfway to a happy amphibian.

Building the right home

• Research the species first. A rainforest frog needs warm, damp air; a newt needs cooler water and land; an axolotl needs a cool aquarium. One size does not fit all.
• Humidity: mist and monitor with a hygrometer so the air is neither bone-dry nor swampy.
• Temperature: use a thermometer and only heat if the species needs it — never guess.
• Hides & plants: caves, logs, leaf litter and live or fake plants give shelter and make a shy animal feel safe.
• Land and water: some species need both a place to swim and a place to climb out and rest.

Most amphibians are hunters and prefer to catch live food that wriggles and moves — it triggers them to feed.

Feeding well

• Live foods such as crickets, worms and bloodworm suit many amphibians; axolotls enjoy worms and special pellets.
• Right size. A good rule is prey no bigger than the space between the animal's eyes — too big can cause choking or gut problems.
• Right frequency. Younger, growing animals eat more often; many adults eat every couple of days. Follow guidance for the species.
• Dust with supplements (calcium/vitamins) as advised, so bones and body stay strong.
• Remove uneaten live prey. Leftover crickets can nibble and stress your amphibian.

Amphibians are quiet and hide illness, so we watch closely for small changes. Spotting something early gives them the best chance.

Things to watch for

• Skin changes — redness, sores, unusual colour, a filmy or fluffy patch, or lots of shedding.
• Appetite — going off food, or not hunting when it normally would.
• Floating or sinking oddly — an axolotl floating and unable to settle, or a frog that seems bloated or listless.
• Behaviour — hiding much more than usual, gasping, or looking dull and still.

Now to the invertebrates — tarantulas, scorpions, mantises, millipedes, stick and leaf insects and land crabs. They may be small, but each needs a home built just for their species.

Setting up an invert home

• Right-sized space. Too big and prey is hard to find; the enclosure should suit the animal, not be huge.
• Substrate depth. Burrowing animals need it deep — millipedes like Steve the red fire millipede need deep, moist substrate to dig into.
• Height for climbers. Mantises like Pixie the orchid mantis and Sprout the giant Asian mantis need height so they can hang upside-down to moult safely.
• Land and water. Dracula the purple vampire crab needs both a land area and clean water — some inverts are semi-aquatic.
• Ventilation & humidity. Balance airflow with dampness — humidity-loving species need misting, while too little air causes mould.

Invertebrates have a hard outer shell instead of an inside skeleton, so the only way to grow is to shed the whole shell and make a new one. This is called moulting, and it's a delicate, vulnerable time.

The moulting rules

• Never disturb a moulting animal. A tarantula often lies on its back to moult — it looks alarming, but it is normal and must be left completely alone.
• Never feed during a moult. A soft, freshly moulted animal can be injured or killed even by a cricket. Remove any live prey.
• Leave it in peace. No handling, no poking, no lifting the lid to check every five minutes.
• Give it recovery time. Afterwards the new shell is soft and needs hours or days to harden before the animal is fed or handled again.

Different inverts eat very different things — from live insects to leaves and rotting wood.

Feeding well

• Predators like tarantulas, mantises (Pixie and Sprout) and scorpions such as Sting the Thai forest scorpion eat live prey like crickets and locusts.
• Leaf eaters like Keith the leaf insect need the right fresh leaves (such as bramble), kept fresh and clean.
• Millipedes like Millie and the rainbow millipedes Sparkles & Shine eat rotting wood, leaf litter and bits of fruit and veg.
• Right size: prey should be smaller than the animal — a huge cricket can hurt a small or newly moulted invert.
• Remove uneaten prey. A leftover live cricket will roam the enclosure and can bite or stress your invert, especially near a moult.

Here's the big one: most invertebrates are for observing, not handling. They don't enjoy being held, and holding them puts both the animal and you at risk.

Why we watch, not hold

• Extreme fragility. An invert's body is easily crushed and a single fall can be fatal — there is no bendy skeleton to protect them.
• Handle low, over something soft — if at all. If handling is truly needed, stay just above a soft surface so a fall is short and cushioned.
• Urticating hairs. Some tarantulas, like Squish the green bottle blue and Squash the Sazima's tarantula, can flick tiny irritating hairs that itch skin and eyes.
• Venom. Scorpions like Sting and some spiders such as Splat the Apache jumping spider can deliver a defensive sting or bite.
• Respect, don't provoke. Never poke, corner or startle an invert. Calm, quiet observation keeps everyone safe.

The best way to learn is to meet the real animals. Here are some of the invertebrate residents at Pets on the Green, and what each one teaches us about good care.

🪱 Millipedes — deep, moist substrate

• Steve the red fire millipede and Millie the brown millipede love to burrow, so they need deep, damp substrate and leaf litter.
• Sparkles & Shine, our rainbow millipedes, are gentle recyclers that munch rotting wood and veg.

🦗 Mantises & leaf insects — height to moult

• Pixie the orchid mantis and Sprout the giant Asian mantis need tall enclosures so they can hang upside-down to shed their skin safely.
• Keith the leaf insect is a master of disguise who needs fresh leaves and calm, damp air.

🦂 Scorpions, spiders & crabs — respect & the right home

• Sting the Thai forest scorpion and Splat the Apache jumping spider are for watching only — respect their space.
• Squish the green bottle blue tarantula and Squash the Sazima's tarantula show us moulting and urticating hairs up close.
• Dracula the purple vampire crab reminds us some inverts need both land and water in their home.

Before a new amphibian or invertebrate comes home, tick off each item as you get it ready. Your progress saves automatically.

• Researched the exact species' needs first
• Correctly sized enclosure with secure lid
• Right substrate at the right depth (deep & moist for burrowers)
• Thermometer & hygrometer to check temperature and humidity
• Dechlorinator & a supply of treated water
• Filtration and/or clean water area set up
• Cool water sorted for axolotls (no heater; not too warm)
• Hides, plants and climbing height for moulting
• Correct food and calcium/vitamin supplements
• Water spray/mister for humidity
• Soft-bristled brush / gentle tools for cleaning
• Specialist exotics vet's phone number written down

Decide what you would do. Tap your answer, then read the guidance.