Reptile Husbandry

Every animal in the UK has five welfare needs in law. For reptiles — like a bearded dragon, leopard gecko or corn snake — these needs look a little different from a cat or dog, because reptiles rely on us to control their whole environment.

• 1Environment — the right vivarium, with heat, UVB light, hides and enough space for the species.
• 2Diet — the correct food and clean water, with the right supplements.
• 3Behaviour — the freedom to bask, climb, dig, hide and behave naturally.
• 4Company — knowing whether the species likes to live alone or in company (many reptiles prefer to live alone).
• 5Health — protection from pain, injury and disease, and a check with an exotics vet when something is wrong.

The vivarium (or "viv") is your reptile's whole world, so it needs to suit the species. Set everything up and get it stable before the reptile arrives.

Size for the species

• A bearded dragon needs a large viv (at least 120cm long) with room to walk and bask.
• A leopard gecko or crested gecko needs less floor space but crested geckos need height to climb.
• A corn snake or royal python needs a long enclosure it can fully stretch out in.
• A tortoise needs a large open floor area (a tortoise table or big enclosure), not a small tank.

Escape-proof security

• Reptiles are brilliant escape artists — snakes especially will push at any gap.
• Make sure lids, sliding doors and vents lock or clip firmly shut.
• Check there are no gaps around heating or wiring.

Hides & substrate

• Provide a hide at the warm end and a hide at the cool end, so your reptile can feel safe at any temperature.
• Choose a safe substrate for the species — for example, paper towel or reptile carpet for youngsters, or a suitable soil/sand mix for adult bearded dragons. Avoid loose substrates that can be swallowed and cause blockages.

Because reptiles can't warm themselves, they move between warm and cool spots to control their body temperature. Your job is to create a safe temperature gradient — a warm end and a cool end.

Heat sources

• Basking bulbs / spotlights — give a warm basking spot (great for bearded dragons and tortoises).
• Heat mats — gentle background warmth, often used for geckos and snakes.
• Ceramic heat emitters — give heat without light, useful for night warmth.

Measuring & the gradient

• Use a thermometer at both ends (a digital probe is best) — don't guess.
• Aim for a warm basking end and a cooler end so the reptile can choose.
• Check temperatures every day and adjust the thermostat as needed.

Day & night

Many reptiles like a small natural drop at night, so daytime and night-time temperatures differ. Always follow a care sheet for your exact species, and check with an exotics vet if you're unsure.

Many reptiles need special UVB light to stay healthy. UVB helps their skin make vitamin D3, which lets their body use calcium for strong bones. Without it, they can develop serious bone disease.

Getting UVB right

• Correct strength: sun-loving desert species like a bearded dragon need a stronger UVB tube; a leopard gecko or crested gecko needs a gentler, lower level.
• Correct distance: mount the tube the right distance from the basking spot — too far and it does nothing, too close can harm.
• Basking: place UVB over the warm basking area so the reptile gets heat and light together, just like sunshine.
• Replace tubes: UVB fades even when the tube still glows. Most tubes need replacing about every 6–12 months — write the date on it.

Humidity is how much moisture is in the air. Different species need very different levels — a desert bearded dragon likes it dry, while a crested gecko or royal python needs more moisture.

Keeping the right level

• Use a hygrometer to measure humidity — again, don't guess.
• Spray/mist the viv for species that need more moisture, such as a crested gecko.
• Always provide clean, fresh water in a bowl the reptile can reach (some, like crested geckos, also drink droplets from misting).

Shedding (and dysecdysis)

Reptiles shed their skin as they grow. When shedding goes wrong and skin gets stuck, it's called dysecdysis. The most common cause is humidity that's too low.

• Correct humidity helps the old skin come away cleanly, often in one piece for snakes.
• A moist "humid hide" can help a reptile that is about to shed.
• Never pull stuck shed off — see the health module and check with an exotics vet if it won't clear.

Reptiles eat very different diets, so match the food to the species.

Different eaters

• Insectivores (mostly insects) — like a leopard gecko.
• Herbivores (mostly plants) — like a tortoise.
• Carnivores (whole prey) — like a corn snake or royal python, fed appropriately sized rodents.
• Omnivores (a mix) — like a bearded dragon, which eats insects and greens.

Gut-loading & supplements

• Gut-load feeder insects (feed them nutritious food) for 24 hours before they go to your reptile, so the reptile gets the goodness too.
• Dust insects or food with calcium and a vitamin supplement to prevent deficiencies — this is really important for bone health.

How often to feed

• Young, growing reptiles usually eat more often (often daily).
• Adults eat less often — some adult snakes eat only once a week or two.
• Follow a species care sheet, and check feeding amounts with an exotics vet if unsure.

A clean viv keeps your reptile healthy and keeps you safe too.

Cleaning routine

• Spot-clean daily — remove droppings, uneaten food and shed skin as soon as you see them.
• Full clean now and then — replace substrate, wash out the viv and clean décor with a reptile-safe disinfectant.
• Use only reptile-safe disinfectants and rinse well — many household cleaners give off fumes that harm reptiles.

When a new reptile arrives, keep it separate from any others for a while — this is called quarantine. It stops any hidden illness or parasites from spreading.

• Keep the new reptile in its own simple, easy-to-clean viv, ideally in a different room.
• Watch it closely for several weeks — check it is eating, shedding, pooing normally and behaving well.
• Care for your existing reptiles first, then the new one, and wash your hands between them.
• If anything seems wrong, check with an exotics vet before mixing animals.

Reptiles hide illness well, so learn the warning signs and act early. When in doubt, always check with an exotics vet.

• Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): soft, bendy or swollen limbs, a wobbly walk, a soft jaw or trembling — usually caused by poor UVB or too little calcium.
• Respiratory infection: wheezing, mucus, open-mouth breathing or blowing bubbles.
• Mouth rot (stomatitis): redness, swelling or cheesy matter around the mouth.
• Retained shed: stuck skin, especially around toes, tail tip and eyes — can cut off blood supply if left.
• Not eating: refusing food for an unusual length of time, or losing weight.

Gentle, calm handling keeps both you and the reptile safe. Only handle when the reptile is settled and healthy, and keep sessions short.

• 1Support the body — hold underneath so the whole body and legs feel supported, never dangling.
• 2Low & slow — move slowly and stay low over a soft surface, so a wriggle or drop can't cause a fall injury.
• 3Short sessions — keep handling brief, especially at first, so the reptile doesn't get cold or stressed.
• 4Never grab tails — some lizards (like leopard geckos) can drop their tail when frightened. Never pick a reptile up by the tail.

Tick off each item as you set up a healthy viv before your reptile arrives. Your progress saves automatically.

• Correct-size vivarium for the species
• Secure, escape-proof lid, doors & vents
• Heat source (basking bulb, mat or ceramic)
• A thermostat controlling the heat source
• Thermometers at the warm end & cool end
• Correct-strength UVB tube (with date written on)
• Hygrometer to measure humidity
• A hide at the warm end and a hide at the cool end
• Safe substrate for the species
• Clean, reachable water bowl
• Calcium & vitamin supplements for dusting
• Exotics vet phone number written down

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