Animal first aid & health checks

1. The four rules of first aid

Whatever the emergency, work through the same four priorities in order:

• Assess the situation — check for danger to you and the animal, and decide how serious the injury is.
• Maintain the airway — make sure nothing is blocking the animal's breathing passage.
• Control breathing — check the animal is breathing and support it if it is struggling.
• Get help — contact a vet as soon as possible; first aid buys time, it does not replace treatment.

Before you act, ask one question: is the injury minor, immediate, or life-threatening? That decides how fast you must respond.

DRABC — the assessment order

• D – Danger — is it safe for you and the animal? Remove hazards first.
• R – Response — is the animal conscious and reacting?
• A – Airway — is the airway open and clear?
• B – Breathing — is the animal breathing?
• C – Circulation — is the heart beating and blood circulating?

2. First-aid box contents

A well-stocked animal first-aid box lets you respond quickly. Typical contents:

• Blunt-ended scissors — to trim fur or cut dressings without cutting the animal.
• Adhesive tape — to secure dressings.
• Cotton wool — for padding and cleaning.
• Sterile dressing materials — to cover wounds cleanly.
• Rectal thermometer + lubricant — to take an accurate body temperature.
• Tweezers — to remove splinters, thorns or ticks.
• Gloves and hand sanitiser — hygiene and protection for you and the animal.
• Eye wash — to flush the eyes.
• Blanket — to keep an animal warm (important in shock) and to help lift or move it.
• Poultice — a soft, moist dressing that draws out infection or debris.
• Saline solution — to clean wounds and flush debris.
• Emergency contact numbers — your vet and out-of-hours service.
• Dressings, cotton bandage and cohesive bandage — to cover and hold wounds; the cohesive bandage sticks to itself, not the fur.

3. Shock

Shock is a lack of blood supply to the major organs and/or the brain. It is life-threatening and moves through stages of increasing severity. The aim of first aid is to stop it reaching the next stage.

Signs

• White (pale) gums.
• A faint but quick heartbeat.
• Quick, shallow breaths.
• Cold to the touch.
• Slow capillary refill — press the gum, release, and the colour is slow to return.

Treatment

• Keep the animal warm — use a blanket.
• Prevent further blood loss.
• Keep the airway clear.
• Keep the animal still.
• Keep the head lower than the body so blood flows to the brain.

4. Convulsions (fits / seizures)

A convulsion is caused by abnormal electrical activity in the brain. The animal loses muscle control, and the main danger is that it injures itself.

Treatment

• Keep noise to a minimum — a calm, quiet space.
• Try not to touch the animal.
• Do not touch around the mouth and do not give food or water.
• Time the seizure — if it lasts more than a few minutes, note the length to report to the vet.

5. Fractures

A fracture is a broken bone. There are two kinds:

• Simple — the bone is broken but there is no external damage.
• Compound / complicated — the broken bone breaks through the skin.

Signs

• Trouble walking or can't bear weight on the limb.
• The animal won't be touched near the injury.
• The limb is held in an unnatural position.

Treatment

• Stop the animal moving the bone — support it with a splint.
• Keep the animal still and get to the vet.
• If the skin is broken, control bleeding with a sterile dressing.
• Do NOT try to reposition the bone.

6. Wounds

A wound is broken skin. A closed wound has damage beneath skin that is not broken.

Signs

• Split skin.
• Bleeding.
• Exudate — fluid leaking from the wound.

Treatment

• Cover with a dressing.
• Do not remove the dressing even once the bleeding stops.
• Check nothing is in the wound before applying pressure.
• A minor, non-bleeding wound can be cleaned with antiseptic then dressed.
• For a closed wound, use a cold compress to limit tissue damage.

7. Dislocations

• A dislocation is a bone forced out of position at a joint.
• It is painful to move and the limb may just "look wrong".
• It can be hard to tell from a fracture, so treat carefully and let the vet diagnose.

8. Choking

An animal unable to breathe survives only minutes, so choking is an immediate emergency.

Treatment

• Restrain the animal so you can work safely.
• Check the airway for an obstruction.
• If you can't remove it, use gravity to dislodge it or apply an upward push on the ribcage.

9. Heat stroke

• A form of hyperthermia — an elevated body temperature with physical and neurological symptoms.
• Cool the animal and seek veterinary help quickly, as high temperatures damage the organs and brain.

10. The health-check routine (nose-to-tail)

A health check works methodically from nose to tail so nothing is missed. First record the basics, then examine each area, noting your findings and whether action is needed.

Record first

• Name and species.
• Weight.
• Temperature.

Then check, in order

• Eyes — clear, bright, no discharge.
• Ears — clean, no odour or discharge.
• Mouth — gums, teeth and any smell.
• Nose — clean, no discharge.
• Front legs & paws / claws.
• Fur / body / coat condition.
• Back legs & paws / claws.
• Tail.
• Genitals.
• Anus.

For each area, write down what you found and whether action is needed — for example a vet visit, grooming or a follow-up check.